I am wondering if the wires on a brushless motor should be shortened or not.
Does making them shorter play around with the board?
Thanks for your input..Brad
Short Wires
Re: Short Wires
Should Not make ANY difference to the Motor OR Board Brad.
Only thing it may effect, is how you 'Dress' the wires from motor to board.
Only thing it may effect, is how you 'Dress' the wires from motor to board.
Re: Short Wires
Thanks Stoo.
I've had a look at a YouTube video called Converting A Flexi To Brushless, NZ Slotcars is the channel.
Pretty basic but he does give a good look at the "Firing Order" for the wires onto a Westrock Board.
But he didn't cut the wires which left a lot of wire hanging around.
But it was probably easier to see on the vid.
Thanks Brad.
I've had a look at a YouTube video called Converting A Flexi To Brushless, NZ Slotcars is the channel.
Pretty basic but he does give a good look at the "Firing Order" for the wires onto a Westrock Board.
But he didn't cut the wires which left a lot of wire hanging around.
But it was probably easier to see on the vid.
Thanks Brad.
Re: Short Wires
Yeah, I've seen that video.
It's OK, ... with perhaps certain reservations of choices and equipment / methods used
He does mention a great older Flux, known previously as "DUZALL", which he suggests was made in New Zealand but the 'Recipe', was Licensed for a number of people to make, (Ages ago I went searching to find the flux Hutcho' recommended, being DUZAL and eventually got to speak with the original creator of DUZALL,... a lovely old guy, who was very helpful).
I can only heartily recommend it's continued use, as it IS still available and is a liquid Zinc Chloride Acid Flux.
It is a particularly aggressive flux that requires Extremely Good Clean Up after use !!! Omit, at your Peril
It was formulated for use when soldering copper, brass, bronze, stainless steel, monel & nickel chromium.
It can be purchased in New Zealand, from DLM Wallace and Locally, it can be purchased as CA Fluid 801 from a variety of places like places. I originally purchased it as "EZI-Weld Fluid 801"
It can be purchased from Blackwoods, National Welding Supplies and, ofcourse, ... eBay
Personally, I'm not to Keen on the Motor mount used in that video, I think there are better alternatives out there, Without having to Add a convoluted Piano Wire brace as shown in the video.
The AB Slot Sports unit comes to mind, as it is easily modified and provides a great Sturdy Location using the existing Bearing upright, as a convenient 'Brace'
I note he also utilizes some 'Kapton' or Polyimide tape (to help prevent Shorts and Aid in the Easy removal of the Double Sided Foam tape
).
I'm not so sure the use of such a Large and perhaps Hot Iron is well advised, (without suitable temperature control), as it is best practice to Not transmit overdue Heat to the board and components.
As far as the Wiring is concerned,... one has to understand that in much the same fashion as a 3 x Pole Brushed motor, the poles are wound with (in effect) one complete piece of copper wire.
With a 9 x Pole Brushless motor, the same scenario is simply multiplied by 3 and is in effect three continuous pieces of copper wire wound around each grouping of 3 Poles.
It does Not really make a discernible difference Where the 3 x wires are attached to the E-Comm / ESC and if the motor runs in the wrong direction after connection, ANY 2 x wires can be changed to reverse the direction.
Many people seem to place the Middle Wire on the Middle Solder Tab but there is NO specific 'Middle' Motor Wire, it is simply the connection to 3 x Poles of the Motor.
The wire really doesn't Weigh THAT much but dressing it well and/or shortening it probably cant hurt, as long as some flexible 'Strain-Relief' is retained
It's OK, ... with perhaps certain reservations of choices and equipment / methods used


He does mention a great older Flux, known previously as "DUZALL", which he suggests was made in New Zealand but the 'Recipe', was Licensed for a number of people to make, (Ages ago I went searching to find the flux Hutcho' recommended, being DUZAL and eventually got to speak with the original creator of DUZALL,... a lovely old guy, who was very helpful).

I can only heartily recommend it's continued use, as it IS still available and is a liquid Zinc Chloride Acid Flux.
It is a particularly aggressive flux that requires Extremely Good Clean Up after use !!! Omit, at your Peril

It was formulated for use when soldering copper, brass, bronze, stainless steel, monel & nickel chromium.
It can be purchased in New Zealand, from DLM Wallace and Locally, it can be purchased as CA Fluid 801 from a variety of places like places. I originally purchased it as "EZI-Weld Fluid 801"
It can be purchased from Blackwoods, National Welding Supplies and, ofcourse, ... eBay

Personally, I'm not to Keen on the Motor mount used in that video, I think there are better alternatives out there, Without having to Add a convoluted Piano Wire brace as shown in the video.
The AB Slot Sports unit comes to mind, as it is easily modified and provides a great Sturdy Location using the existing Bearing upright, as a convenient 'Brace'

I note he also utilizes some 'Kapton' or Polyimide tape (to help prevent Shorts and Aid in the Easy removal of the Double Sided Foam tape


I'm not so sure the use of such a Large and perhaps Hot Iron is well advised, (without suitable temperature control), as it is best practice to Not transmit overdue Heat to the board and components.
As far as the Wiring is concerned,... one has to understand that in much the same fashion as a 3 x Pole Brushed motor, the poles are wound with (in effect) one complete piece of copper wire.
With a 9 x Pole Brushless motor, the same scenario is simply multiplied by 3 and is in effect three continuous pieces of copper wire wound around each grouping of 3 Poles.
It does Not really make a discernible difference Where the 3 x wires are attached to the E-Comm / ESC and if the motor runs in the wrong direction after connection, ANY 2 x wires can be changed to reverse the direction.
Many people seem to place the Middle Wire on the Middle Solder Tab but there is NO specific 'Middle' Motor Wire, it is simply the connection to 3 x Poles of the Motor.
The wire really doesn't Weigh THAT much but dressing it well and/or shortening it probably cant hurt, as long as some flexible 'Strain-Relief' is retained

Re: Short Wires
Thanks Stoo.
Yeah, I wouldn't hit one of those boards with a chisel tip for all the tea in China.
Nice sharp pencil tip for me, with the temp wound down on the Wella.
Thanks...Brad.
Yeah, I wouldn't hit one of those boards with a chisel tip for all the tea in China.
Nice sharp pencil tip for me, with the temp wound down on the Wella.
Thanks...Brad.
Re: Short Wires
Zinc Chloride is mildly corrosive but is not classified as a acid .
For soldering stainless steel real acid might be needed to get it to " tin" .
As a first year apprentice all i did all day was use a soldering iron so i know how to solder . Soft solder or hard solder i know how to do it.
When finished always clean up the job to remove whatever flux has been used . I spray it with electrical contact and parts cleaner then wipe the job.
For soldering stainless steel real acid might be needed to get it to " tin" .
As a first year apprentice all i did all day was use a soldering iron so i know how to solder . Soft solder or hard solder i know how to do it.
When finished always clean up the job to remove whatever flux has been used . I spray it with electrical contact and parts cleaner then wipe the job.

Re: Short Wires
Actually David, the 801 'Formulation', does contain Hydrochloric Acid, which is why, from both personal experience and industry, it provides such excellent performance soldering Stainless Steel and other metals and obviously makes it somewhat More 'aggressive' than merely Zinc Chloride.
CA 801 Soldering Fluid MSDS

CA 801 Soldering Fluid MSDS
Re: Short Wires
So this shit would be good for the new Gemini chassis guys?
And how are you Dave?
Glad your still interested and well....Brad
And how are you Dave?
Glad your still interested and well....Brad
Re: Short Wires
Well, I guess so, ... Why the New Gemini chassis specifically ?? ... Plating ?? ... Finish etc ??BYATSUYS wrote: Mon Feb 10, 2025 7:57 pm So this shit would be good for the new Gemini chassis guys?
It's great for everything
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
I have a Ton of it, so if you have a suitable container, I can easily supply you with some
