Australian Slot Car Racers Association

I have had a few people ask me about what to use for Group 27 light wing cars, so I thought I would make a post so that everybody who needs to know can see what I think.

Disclaimers: (1) I am sponsored by Slick7, so I might not be as objective as I think I am. (2) There are other people who are definitely better than me, but I am pretty sure that they are using similar equipment to what I describe below.

Chassis
On our tracks, a longish (4.625") steel chassis seems to work best. There are three chassis that I know of which all seem good. They are: Slick7 Predator XL, Koford Viper, and Alpha steel chassis. The biggest problem is getting hold of one of the bloody things, since they are mostly out of production. The American manufacturers cater for their biggest market, which is... America. Over there they use really short chassis for their super-speedway style tracks. In general, those short cars don't work well on our flatter and tighter tracks. Although you can get them to FLY around the fast lanes, they are a bitch on the gutters.

So your only realistic option is one of the long steel chassis I have mentioned above. However, in order to get one you have to know someone who knows someone, which is not ideal. Fortunately, I understand that Alpha will be making their chassis available again and I am working on another production run of the Slick7 chassis. If Koford ever make more of their Viper chassis, I'm sure they will be very welcome in Australia.

Motor
There is only one brand of armature to use, and that is the Koford Tristar Group 27. Timing of 34 to 36 degrees is what works. These things are fast, consistent, and reliable. Save yourself some effort and just stick to them.

As for setups, there are lots of options and it doesn't seem to matter much what you choose. I use Koford ready-made setups and they are simply excellent. Other guys use Camens which are damn good too. Still others use whatever can is lying around (Cahoza, Koford, Slick7, Camen etc) and put Wrightway or Deltech magnets in them and they go very well indeed.

Brushes? Proslot GoldDust or Koford BigFoot. Brush springs? Koford M313 - the best spring ever made (in my opinion. YMMV)

Body
The Alpha Nissan seems to keep winning, and winning, and winning. The only body I have found that can equal it is the TFC Phoenix (made by Carl at Rockhampton). I have tested a lot of bodies, but I keep coming back to these. If you look at Rick Verbeek's car you will almost certainly find an Alpha Nissan on it, alongside a first place trophy. Enough said.

Wing kit and build
Use either a Slick7 wing kit (.005" side dams and .007" tail) or a Frontline kit to similar specs. Get an expert such as Geoff Little to build one for you, and then copy it in future. Wing bodies can be a bit variable, unfortunately. You can build two identical looking bodies and one will be great, the other completely shit. Don't ask me why because I don't know. It's just the way it is.

Gearing
Use 10:39 (64 pitch) or 11:43 (72 pitch). I use 64 pitch because they are cheaper. For 64 pitch use either a ARP pinion, or Koford black diamond. For the spur gear, run what you like. They are all good.

Tyres
If you like, you can mess around with tyres for the rest of your life. Or you can use Alpha Big Hub Medium Wonder Rubbers, cut to 0.660" wide. If you use these Alpha tyres, you will NEVER have a tyre issue. Ever. Just do it, you know it make sense.

Guide and leadwire
Koford guide, Proslot or TQ leadwire. Nothing else is as good.

Axles
Yes, the type of axle makes a difference in more ways than you think. Slick7 axles are straight and the flats are in the right place for Slick7 and Alpha chassis. Importantly, if (when!) you end up in a really big crash they do not bend because they are designed to break instead. That makes a HUGE difference to how much damage is transferred to you poor little car. I believe Koford axles are just as good, but the flats don't match the chassis width except for Koford chassis.

I hope this helps as a starting point for those of you entering our crazy game!

Very good and vvvery true Tim.
Wayne

Good tips Tim,

Good to see you doing this.

My last 27 Lite car, Slick 7 4.625 chassis, Alpha Nissan body,

Was also interesting with NSW state titles that had a mix of full 27 and 27 lite cars, 1st & 2nd in both qual and race were both 27 lite.

On the subject of long Chassis Koford still makes one 4.6 Long for 27 lite and is readily available

Hi Tim,

I just started racing again.

At Hornsby in 27's i ran .004 wings but my 27 car didn't handle that well, it was most likely the chassis but i would to check your experience with the thinner wings?

regards
MT

It is impossible to say what your handling problem was, because there are so many things it could be. Find out what the other guys at Hornsby are using and try that. Lindsay knows his way around a wing car, and I am sure he would help.

Thanks for the info Tim.

Something to note that the 4.60" Koford chassis also has thinner rails (more bite) than all of their shorter Grp 27 Light chassis.
A lot of racers on the hi speed tracks in the US have been using 4 thou wings (ala Emerson winning the US Nats, Camen dimpled Supro, no rib) and seemed obsessed with getting the lightest body possible.. They have "etched" the wings to reduce flapping however, using 3 close ball point pen scribes. IMO might be better to use some plastic reinforced tape.

My Grp 27 light goes better with 5 thou wings at Redline.

John Ward had a very fast 4.10" chassis (and surprisingly a Koford Peugot body, winged by Mario Schone) running really well on the gutter lanes at Redline before he passed away , so it may be possible to get away with a short chassis at Mobile Raceways depending on grip levels.

See more radial mag setups are creeping in.