Australian Slot Car Racers Association

You know,..I would Really Like to hear from Anyone who has HONESTLY Managed to 'Correctly' assemble a Plafit 3300K,..FROM the Bag of Bits'

That's right,..From Scratch,..Without Help !!,...No Car to copy from !!

ANYONE Managed it ???,..Perhaps those that Only ever got Meccano for Birthdays and Christmas Might be able to,..lol

Whilst I find the almost Complete Lack of ANY Building/setup Guides or instructions by ANYONE on the Net a rather intrigueing thing,..I would have to say the MOST ANNOYING thing is the Apparent complete Lack of ANY information supplied by the Manufacturer !!

Come to think of it,..Try and Find their Web Site !!!,..Oh and Not the Plafit Racing site,..That's Useless as far as I can tell and Only seems to have Race information.

Doing a Damn fine Job of being Invisible!!

WHAt IS IT with these damned cars and this Whole Very Secretive little World ???

One would have to say there are literally Hundreds of Articles on setting up and tuning Fully Built Plastic 'Toy' cars like Fly's and Scalextric than there is for the Plafit 'Meccano' Cars !!

Doesn't ANYONE Else find this Exremely Odd ??

Guess everyone MUST have just bought a Pre Built Car and then had to Purchase all the 'Extra Bits' you really Need to Have a Race Ready Car! and the copied that when they bought the 'Bits'.

And people Hate Wing cars and Scratch building is Too hard,..lol,..Give me a Break,..I'd Venture there are enough articles on the Web to Build and assemble a Wing car and Body,..AND it Sure Would be a HECK of a LOT Easier to Find the Respective Manufacturers OR Where to get ALL the Parts you Need ,..and Then Some !!

For what would appear to be a Rather Popular Class of Slot Cars, the Lack of Technical information, I find Really Strange !!

And Yes,..I'm completely Happy with the Fact that My Non Tesla Like Mind, Has Not been able to Create the required Mental 3D Image of where all those Different Size Screws and washers go !!

extremely true stoo!
keep a look out for an all new ozzie built scale chassis that will be very user fiendly!


sit tight guys

Stoo, there is a bit of info scattered around the place, but it is difficult to track down.
This is a good one done by Jan on MR Forum.

If there are good sites out there for the technical side of setting Plafits up, maybe someone else can point us to them.

Yes,..possibly,..but I sure haven't found it.

There IS a bit of stuff for the 1/24th variants SLP2 etc, but nothing I can see regarding the 3300.

That link did bnot appear Steve and I can't find anything like what I want on the MR forum.

I have the thing Half assembled and Just KNOW I have Some bits and Springs in the Wrong places and I have a 'Bag of Bits', that I have No idea what to do with lol.

One thing I AM intrigued by, is how close the Guide is to the front Wheels!
I'm building this for a Maserati MC12, it has a long Wheelbase, with Plenty of room up front for the guide and if I use the long accepted Ratio of 'desired' Guide lead to raer Wheel Width, then the Guide Definitely NEEDS to go Further forward! And I would Like it to be Further forward, that was Partly the reason for the choice of body, as it would allow for a nice long car.

The way the Only Guide Piece fits to the Front 'T' piece, limits it's Extension AND mounting integrity!

Perhaps the Longer Chassis or T piece might be the Go, with the Front axle holders Reversed!?

Even finding the Few Pictures of cars that I have, people have used 'Different Parts,..or atleast Look different, which kinda makes it hard to 'Recognise' that bit in Your own bag of Bits !!,..ROFL,...sigh

Plus coming from a LIFE of Pin tubes the Body Mounting method is another 'Issue',..lol

It will just have to wait until I have my 'Grubby little hands' on a Built car to 'Copy'.

we hear ya bro.

sit tight

stoo23 wrote:Yes,..possibly,..but I sure haven't found it.
That link did not appear Steve and I can't find anything like what I want on the MR forum.

Stoo, not sure why you can't see that post. Works OK for me.
Anyway, it is post #9 in THIS THREAD under; > 1/24 Scale > True Scale cars > 1/24 Plafit.
It's not for the right chassis, but the info can be used as a generic Plafit chassis assy guide. Clearly you need more specific info for the "3300" chassis.
Maybe Jan, Werner, or other experienced Plafit builders can help out here.

I Didn't 'see' the 'link' on "This"

We must get links to be a different colour !!

Gar?,..get onto it !!,..

I Had already Seen that post though Steve,..
No chassis building info there,..

Because there are so many options of What and How you Mount things, whether they are sprung or Not etc,..having just spoken with GaryJ discussing Mounting of various Parts, it would seem the 'Bag of Bits I still have is a 'Stabiliser' Kit, which apparently No one Really seems to Know Just What and or How this is supposed to be mounted,..might be wrong, but that was the Impression I got, plus on gary's suggestions, I don't have all the bits I need,..plus the way I have it assembled, I am short 1 x pan head screw for the Front Axle mounts,..and NO I have Not Lost OR dropped one,..sigh

Plus the Standard 'Kit' has a very Odd and Rather Tall body mounting methodology that is strange to say the least a method to lower all of that Is available,..But Need MORE 'Bits',..lol

I'd Venture there would be a Ready Market for a "Bag of Bits You ACTUALLY Need" as a Puchasable Option,..in Effect a Race 'Bag',..one might end up with a Lot of Extra Scrap Bits I would assume though,..perhaps they could be sold for Scrap !!,..lol

One does seriously have to Wonder about the Front axle mounting assembly though,..a True Art in Getting Those 'Puppies' aligned 'Nicely',..Grrr

One Could easily suggest these cars Weren't designed by Carrol Smith !!!,..ROFL

Well, amazingly, apart from perhaps having the relevant springs in the wrong places,..after looking at one of the RTR's at HSC when attending the Retro Race,..I DID manage to build it correctly, (from the one or two pictures I found).

Although, am still Not completely sure about the whole setup.

Got a Longer Main chassis plate, as the MC12 s rather long.

Purchased extra screws and the flat body mounts, but perhaps still need one or two bits. In fact am quite unsure just How I will go about Mounting the Body, with Either body mounting method.

I must admit, I am unsure about the use of those Plastic spacer pieces, Metal Would seem better to me and I think I maybe need the different Height Axle blocks, as even with the standard spacers fitted, it seems a bit too far off the deck to me, but unfortunately I could not get the parts the other night.

Somewhat strange that there Aren't many after market Wheel inserts suitable for these Wheels,..Plenty for the 1/24th variants.

Bit of rebuilding this week,..guess I will see how it goes.

I just thought I would continue with this (perhaps Interesting to Some tale),..lol

As can be seen by the Literal FLOOD of helpful and informative links and suggestions offered by So Many, I thought I would take this opportunity to personally Thank Pete 'Richo', for his previous contacts, Photos and all round helpful, and informative info, attitude, etc.

How's the 'How-To' coming along ??,..lol

So,..as I Had suspected,..the Longer Main chassis plate Was a Good Idea and after having completed My 'Initial' assembly and Noticed that a LOT of Stuff was NOT Flat and Needed attention, I set about pulling it apart, Again !!, sadly also Not to be the Last either.

OK, visit the track, and try to get all the EXTRA bits I once again Need,..and Can you believe, even after a couple More purchases, I am still to have everything I either Want OR NEED in my grubby little hands.

Now this is Partly due to getting what you Think you need and then after getting home and re assembling, you realise you actually NEED another 'Bit', sorry Guys, but for those that have a 'Box' full of 'Bits' it Isn't a Problem, BUT doing as I have done, from the Basic "Kit", there is a LOT Required and Not supplied.
It is Also Due I will endeavour to a lack of Knowledge, OR trying to be Too clever,..lol

Mounting methodologies for the particular Carrera body I have chosen are relatively limited and as I am still rather unsure as to Just HOW one Can Modify the Body Mounting 'Bits' and still be legal, with them complete as Standard, I am NOT at all Happy with the way the Body Mounting process is Going at all !!

As far as the Chassis is concerned,..well, deciding I Don't really Like those Nylon style Axle mounting Spacers and thinking either the Taller Axle Blocks themselves OR the Metal Spacers would be better, I attempted to Purchase the suitable items,..Hmmmm, unfortunately Not that easy, (from My local raceway that is!),.
Now in That I am Not all That Unhappy, as there IS an absolute Plethora of various PlaFit 'Bits' that would seem to be needed to be Stocked,..a somewhat Mammoth undertaking Initially I am sure and then early on to Keep on Top of Stock levels requires a bit of settling down and Product Knowledge etc, so in That regard I guess we are All learning,..the outcome of which is Still,..Unfortunately,..that I do NOT YET have a car that Has even Turned 1 single Lap and it has been re-built a Number of times, with as I Now realise yet More re-building to go to get it in My View,..'Race-Ready',..sigh,...

The Other BIG ISSUE, that I seem I must admit to almost becoming Obsessed with,..lol,..is the ever increasing realisation of Just How STRANGE it is, that as a Slot "Car" manufacturer, Plafit, don't actually Offer that Complete facility, Ex-Factory!
Correct me if I am wrong, but I am Not aware of Any PlaFit Bodies,..or Ahem,..Wheel Inserts !!, for their Odd Sized Wheels !!!!

Whilst I CAN Understand the Idea that as a Manufacturer, they were Merely 'providing' a Chassis, to which one Could, if One Wished, Mount Some kind of Body to,..to effectively Make it a Slot "Car" as such.
There Are already a Number of Other manufacturers that provide 'After-Market' Chassis and such,..BUT,..Many of them Also Manufacture or Market Extra Goodies and accessories, Including Bodies and Wheels, to Allow one to actually Build an Effective Slot Car from all the 'Bits' they supply.

Heck Imagine getting a Scalextric Race Set,..Only to Find you Needed to Purchase a Couple of Slot cars from Another Manufacturer altogether to get the Body required to Race !!

A somewhat strange situation,..Yes ??

I know of No Other manufactutrer, that actually requires the cannabilisation of Another manufacturers Product to Make their Own Product into an effective Slot car, Model or Toy !!!

What IMHO is even worse, is the development of a Rule Base, that 'Demands' certain requirements, placed upon what are to be Honest Whilst agreeably 'desirable' appearance wise, of Little consequence, Performance wise, Especially, when That particular requirement Is NOT supplied as an accessory within the 'Framework' of a Class Devoted Exclusively to That Manufacturer !!

Do you also Not find this a Rather Odd situation ??

Following on from My 'Ongoing' Personal 'Build', not Only do I have to Somehow find and purchase some Brand of aftermarket Wheel insert, Or Purchase (If I can Even find Any available) Carrera Spare Wheel Sets,...OR somehow 'Turn Down' the Wheels that came on the car I realise Now that I Must 'Trash', apart from just utilising it's Body Shell, which, without a Lathe, one either sees a rather 'dodgy',..read possibly dangerous excersise ahead Or having to find and Oh yes probably Pay someone to do for me, Just to make my car Legal to even Enter in the "PlaFit" race !!!

If I could either Purchase over the counter at My Local Raceway, or purchase easily, then as with any one else, it would probably have been an instant purchase of the 'suitable' item, to suit my car choice.

But as noticed in the Rules, the car has to apparently Retain the various Front and Rear Underbody Skirts and Diffusers etc,..an interesting Problem, as with My particular Body the front is complete and integrated into the Body shell, BUT, at the Rear, the Diffuser section, is simply Part of the Carrera Cars chassis, so once again, one has to work out How to effectively Remove Just That Part of the 'Other' slot car, Now rendering it as Uselass!! and then also How one goes about getting these Two Completey Different Plastics to effectively Now 'Bond' together Homogenously!

One wonders Just How Much of The Rear Diffuser/Undertray one Has to try and Keep/Fit, as having Too Much would be a Weight dis-advantage and Too Little Would preclude the cars Legality.

Plus there Is One Other point I am finding a Bit Odd, especially with all the 'Requirements' of Scale Realism, and is a point I tried to make elsewhere.

Both the Front and Rear Tyres I have purchased, defined within the Rules, means I have Tyres/Wheels, that In NO Way, Reflect the Running Reality of the Real Car, Nor do they in any way reflect Either of the Tyre/Wheel Combo diameters of that produced by Either Scalextric OR Carrera !!

It Would Not matter Which Body 'Shell' I ran, (although I am at a loss to understand How one could effectively Use the Scalextric Shell), the Fitted Plafit wheels and Tyres are Even simply Visually Far TOO Small for the Wheel Arches!,..let alone the fact the the Tyre Side wall ratio is, as can be easily be seen by virtually all the cars I have seen almost Non existent,..I mean C'mon guys, some of the cars look like they a running 5 or 10 series Tyres !!!,..lol

It's merely a thought, as I sit here looking at the Very Nice Scalextric Maserati MC-12, (You Know,..the Car you might have bought to canabilise), that I purchased For That very reason only to realise the Carerra version may be a better choice for my Plafit car, when, straight out of the Box, my 'Donor' Car, against a suitable field of Similarly equipped Standard Scalextric cars and Damn Good drivers, allowed me to have some of the best Fun and Extremely Close, competitive and enjoyable racing I have had with Any slot car !! and it Didn't require me to purchase Anything Extra to acheive that Simple Goal !!

Anyway,..enough Raving,..I'll get this damn thing together eventually, with the Correct Ride Height etc, etc,..Oh and Probably Wheel Inserts,..lol
Mind you it Does make an Interesting comparison to the Recent Scratch-built Aussie Retro F1 car I literally 'Threw' together in a day and finished in the car on the way to the race. All standard K&S Wire, with Standar K&S Brass and it actually works Really Well !! And was Unbelievably Great fun to drive and Race !! A soldering Iron, a Pair of Pliers and a $16.00 nibbler is all that would be needed to make the Same car,...cost of chassis parts? being generous I will say $25.00, complete running car ?,..well, we Know the answer there!,..lol Except Mine Has a Body !!,..lol

You know,..one other thing that maybe a small point, but can often be a Nice way of 'Personalising' this Type of slot car, would be to Allow people to 'Cocours Up there Donor Cars, like the Other classes and maybe allow Custom Liveries. I both enjoy and appreciate the Look of Real Race cars, but as this Whole class seems to Require Severe Modeling skills anyway, why Not allow some of the Really Good Modellers and Painters out there to Create Great Looking 'Personalised' cars, it would Not be difficult to keep the designs within the Spirit of acceptable standards, especially with the kind of Paint work we are seeing on Current racing cars,..anyway,..enough for now,..lol

Hi Stew,

Chassis looks OK.

Diffusers.. Rear just cut straight along the width at the back of the wheel arch. Front, a bit tricky thanks to that very necessary piece of slot car eqipment, the guide.. Again, cut straight across the width on the front of the wheel arch, then carfully, dremmel out the space behind the front of the body to allow for guide movement. I leave a bit on the sides for strength but in the middle, go as close to the front of the body as you dare to allow for full polar movement

Tyre size. The 16mm rims we use are the best. In fact the only ones available that suit. Now the standard inserts from the donor kit can still be used. Just need to sand them down & then cut off the back of them to fit. You can cut the donor axles in half with rims attached, place in the dremmel and sand down each plastic rim individually. Then cut them in half so that they slide in to the plafit rim. A bit of araldite and you have some nice wheels. I mainly use the Slot It inserts you can buy in a pack of 4. A light sand & they press straight in and look very good... Most importantly, run wheel inserts. you have just spent a bit of money on a chassis and body, and it looks so much better with inserts. Remember, this is a model car that will look good on the shelf as well as the track..

Mounting. 1st, set your body mounts on the chassis to suit the body you have chosen. Foam is glued to the mounts first. Space so the body is firm but not over tight when you slide over the chassis. Use either Selly's Gel Grip or Araldite. I use Gel Grip for both the foam to the mounts and then the body to the foam. Before you then glue the body, on the chassis you will see 2 holes that go through the chassis & through the body plate. Bolt them together, so that the body plate does not move. Othersise, the body will move in the mount process & you will get frustrated at the "crooked" result. Now to glue the body, place the chassis on your set up board. Put 4 20 cent bits around, 2 at the front & 1 on each side so that the body will slide onto the chassis & rest on the 20 cent bits. There is your ride height. Now place your choice of glue on the foam, and a bit on the body where they will meet, and slide on down to the 20 cent bits. Check that all is lined up (Wheels in the centre of guards etc) and go & have a beer.. When the glue is dry, you should have a perfectly mounted body but remember to take the screws out so that the chassis plate moves again.

There will of course be others that mount differently, but this works for me.

Another tip, list the motor on ebay from the donor kit. You will recover a fair bit of your spend !!!

As for dressing up & painting your own, yes this is fine and is done. Just watch the weight though. Paint does weigh a bit, but the end results are good.

I can' find those pictures I sent to you or I would post here.. I'll do some more...

Guys, happy to answer any questions you have on any plafit car. You can email me direct at nomadman@bigpond.com or post here & I breeze by every couple of days. If you email I am happy for you to post replies to help all..

Regards

Pete "Richo" Richards
Nomad Raceway Toowoomba

Hi Pete,

Once again thanks for the info,..I am sure many people will find it Helpful,..(Well IF they are actually 'Building' their own car!,..lol).

Pete got intouch, I believe after Werner noticed my initial 'post' and sent a PM to Pete,..so I guess, thanks Werner.

Still, I Do find it Intrigueing, that even after my post about the Complete lack of Any 'Building/Tuning' info for these cars, Pete, is the ONLY person to have offered ANY Help!!,..So Once again,..I thank you for your assistance, willingness to help and Freedom of information!

I thought as Pete had mentioned it above I would 'post' his email reply to myself, along with the descriptive pictures, (as he mentioned he was thinking of doing a How-To, I didn't want to Preempt his efforts, with an incomplete article,..but Here ya Go;


Welcome to Super 32 101….

I have attached a few pictures of my Super 32 on which I run the Ninco Mosler body. Some descriptions as well that may help..

This is what I have overall. Tune up parts, only bearings in the rear, carbon guide tongue (not really necessary but makes me look like I know what I am doing..), carbon axle and stabaliser kit. I run without the magnet for board track racing. I also run the longer plate as you have purchased.

Here is the front end. The 2 screws directly behind the axle mounts (Blue Arrows), you do not need. You can use for adjustment but I prefer to space the front end by spacers under the axle mounts. Carbon axle, just head to your nearest RC Plane centre and get some 3mm solid carbon rod. You will get heaps of axles for $5.00… Only good for the front though. Now the front axle holders. What a nightmare. First, replace the small screws at the top (Red arrows) with allen screws (or cup head screws). They hold better. Aligning them is a trick. They do seem to go better with the cup head screws. Once you have it reasonable, tighten up the screws (top/bottom), hook the dremmel on the axle (use the steel axle for this) and give it a buzz. It sort of “hones” the oilites. Once they are free they hold OK. You can run bearings, but I use oilites and they spin free. You will need to have the wheel base extended for this as you may need to access the screws underneath while you play to free it all up. Once it is free, you can adjust the wheelbase back to suit the body. I will talk about the stabaliser later.

Mount plate (red arrow). Or H plate you may have referred to as. No springs at all in the plate. The small 2mm hole spacers should be all you need It is only so the body moves free and it should also sit flat on the chassis plate at rest. Body movement has an effect on the handling of these cars. The more movement, the car will grip up, less movement, will slide a bit (these things have a tendency to be “tippy”). Stabaliser set up. Yes I recommend this as a must. 2 things, 1. It reduces or controls the sway in the front T plate. You set the stabaliser so that you have ½ the thickness of the chassis plate in movement only. More than that, the chassis may hit the track. 2. If you run with magnet on magna braid or plastic track, you lock it solid or the magnet will pull the chassis onto the track & scrape. Very simple set up & I will get you a clearer picture of that.

Body Mount. As for the flat mounts, I have never used them, although I do have them. The cars are a tight fit that is for sure. I find the minimal amount of weight in the normal amounts is no hindrance to the performance, although, in theory, the flat mounts should be better. As I say though, never had a go at using them. I should do so... but the standard mounts are fine and cost effective. To mount a body, make sure that you have the chassis set up (wheel base etc) and lock the H plate. You can put a screw through the chassis to hold this, that way the body will not move when you mount. Ensure you have the mount plates (with foam glued to them) set at the right width to be a firm but not tight fit. Use Selly’s Gel Grip for the foam to the mounts. Then some foam on the outside of the foam, slide the body on so it is all in line with the wheel base. I use 20c pieces (4) around the chassis so the body sits on them while it dries. Then you have the body glued at the right height. Once dry, get rid of the 20c, take out the screw from the H plate & it should be sweet. As a final adjustment if needed, use the small 2mm brass washers under the mount plat screws to lift the body a bit.

Chassis Height.. Run about 1 mm seems to be best. You can buy spacers (brass or plastic) to go under the axle mounts. Its best to do this to get the height right before you worry about setting the front end discussed above… You want the front wheels to touch to carry the weight a bit. Not as much with the 3200 as the 1/24 1300U & 1700 series. Braids, softer braids work well if the track is smooth & braid is flat. If the track braid is a bit rough, use the old faithful Parma Big Mama’s…

Hot up parts, look not many are required. I would by some 3mm Cup Head (allen screw) bolts as per front axle holder, definitely a stabaliser set, and you can also get (I have yet to fit) an alignment plate for the front end.. The plate is like a brace that goes from one front axle holder to the other. I haven’t got one & I haven’t had the axle lock on this one yet. But it would be handy.

The below may also help. It was done for the 1300U but principles apply.

1. Make sure every chassis piece is FLAT, SQUARE and/or STRAIGHT - if not make sure it is.
2. Assemble the chassis with care, making sure no tweak is built into it - watch out when tightning screws/bolts/nuts that the chassis remains as per #1.
3. Ground clearance is dependent on the class rules and personal preference, but generally speaking can be set between the rear axle height and the front axle height. Some rules specifically state that the front wheels must touch when the car is standing on a tech board (without any cutaways). In this case the ground clearance can easily be set using the front wheels. If the front wheels don't have to touch, then you need to use the guide (with spacers) to adjust for the ground clearance. You can also bend the guide tongue or buy a pre-bent one. However, very important - the suspension of the chassis does not work unless the front wheels come into contact with the track. So if you're not placing the front wheels on the track, then make sure they are not that far off.
3. Springs - on a slippery surface go soft and on a grippy surface go hard.
4. Body movement - on a slippery surface go for more movement and on a grippy surface go for less movement.
5. Chassis centre movement - on a slippery surface go looser and on a grippy surface go firmer.
6. Polar movement (distance from guide pivot to rear axle) - go longer for less slide and shorter for more slide on the backend.
7. If the car de-slot from the front end, move weight backwards. If it de-slots from the rear end, move weight forward.
8. Wheel spur (width of rear wheels setup) - go wider (upto maximum allowed) for less grip and narrower for more grip.
9. Tyres, all the Plafit tyres are the same - some are simply dried out and others are fresh. Fresh tyres are obviously what we all want, but we can adjust for hardness and slide by using the above parameters. However, to keep your tyres fresh, keep your chassis and/or tyres in a ziplock bag with as much air sqeezed out as possible. Finally, wider is not always better, so have some tyres that are narrower than the maximum width allowed. Especially when running on gooped tracks (normally Plafit tyres work best without goop). Goop slows these cars down - forget what works with flexi's and wings - it does not work with Scale Model cars.
10. Braids - alway use as much or as little as required for good contact and the least resistance - remember, briads are friction.
11. Gears - get a quiet gearmesh - the nylon pinions work very well, but the brass ones can also be very quiet. Again remember, noise is friction and friction is slowing the car down.

Hope all this helps a bit Stewart. Let me know how you get on…..

Pete

Nomad Hobbies & Nomad Raceway

Hi All,

For anyone who needs a hand with their Plafit cars at the NSW Champs at Hornsby, Dave Newton & I will be there on the Saturday and will freely offer any assistance you need to set up your cars. We have been running these for a few years now & happy to help anyone out.

Please come & ask us if you want any help.

Regards

Pete Richards

Well,..the Meccano Beastie has had it's First 'Run' as such,..(Not in true Racing anger mind you,..but still a Good Run), the other night after the Retro Race.
Dale had a drive and he thought it was rather nice and He and Chris had been tearing around with Chris's New 1/24th CroupC car, so it was Good to have something to 'Pace' with.

To be Honest,..I Must say I AM rather Happy with how the car went 'straight out of the Box' as it were.
The car is very smooth and quiet, (always a good thing!, lol) and Very nice to drive and appears to be on the pace of the other cars.

Considering this was a Complete 'First Time' build from a 'Bag 'o Bits' and kinda just doing what seemed like a Good Idea with the setup, it's Pretty Good.

I intend trying a few changes, (if just to 'Confirm' what the changes Do etc), and perhaps different Ratios,../ motors !!,..lol
I was running a 10 tooth pinion and it seemed pretty good,.. ?


Here's some pics of the finished car,..with 'just a wee bit of Extra Detail',..

Good work Stoo

I had a crack at one of these bodies, could never get it to handle all that well, ok in a staight line but tippy in the corners, it was a scaley one though and Ive heard that the nincos are much better. I ended up using a ferrari and that went ok on the same chassis.

Stoo, very nice work.
There is now doubt about it, true scale slot cars look great.