Australian Slot Car Racers Association

Thanks Stu, I really miss the Retro. Is it coupes the next Retro?
Start at 7pm?

any pics? (he's alive!)

Thanks for the reply Stoo and Steve. I understand the car setup (Weight, CoG, flex, Tire width) has a lot to do with the handling, but what I really wanted to know is whether there is any understanding out there on which tires are good for high friction and which ones for less and low friction ...

As I have been finding out, the "grippyness" of the rear tire makes a huge difference on the track. Most of the time my problem is that the rear tires are too grippy and unforgiving, resulting in deslotting (ie tipping over in cornes or lifting the guide out when accelerating). ie Aussie Retro F1 or ...

Thanks for the report Stoo. No apology needed for knocking me down from 3rd.
S!@t happens in these races and as long as I get to return the favour....

Now, what's a 'Proper' F1 chassis Stoo? (ie, would like your advice on what you see wrong with my current one?).

thanks in advance,
js

Thanks for the report Stoo. Yes specially for this race I rocked up with a new Retro Coupe Car with 1970 Ferrari 512 body. Only thing was that it was PET. I did manage to finish the race (2nd?), even though the nose was missing.... As I chucked it in the bin, I could only reconstruct what I looked ...

Thanks for posting Stoo. Following the link to NDW site shows some pretty impressive crafting of slotcar bodies! I noticed that's the dutch guy from Amsterdam you told me about before.
js

Gary, These chassis look really nice. They look like ~2-3mm anodised aluminium? (I use this for electronic racks/cabinets manufacture). Would be interested to see what the weight and other engineering aspects are. They certainly look like a lot easier to work on than the Plafits, which have so many ...

Thanks Chadley. Yes indeed, it's mainly the flexi chassis that are the problem (GT1, Utes and V8 at HSC). Every other class seem to mount the motor. I reckon every time you solder the motor, you lose 5-10% of the magnet strength (and power). I pre-tin the surfaces then clamp the motor on the chassis ...

Hi,
Anyone have any experience with using alternative methods to fix motors to chassis (rather than soldering)?.
Soldering seems great for strenght and heat conductivity, but apparently even a short period of heat reduces the effectiveness of the magnets. And expoxy glue does not seem strong enough?

Hi Perry,
How do you get the brass (or is it copper?) so shiney? (dremel and polishing paste?).

I agree with Stoo, they look like fine pieces of workmanship.

I really like the mirror finish. Hope you can share some of your secrets...
cheers,
js

As far as I know, all results for HSC are at:
http://www.hornsbyslotcars.com.au/race_results/
cheers,
jacco

Thanks Gary, that's the almost the same as the method used for the hardbody on the 1/32 plafit.
Good to have these tips.
cheers,
js

Hi All, Does anyone have any tech tips and photos on how to mount/align a Lexan/PET 0.020 body on a Plafit 1300U 1/24 chassis? (I assume the usual "Aussie Retro" pinhole or GT1 wire approach are not the way to go....). I have mounted a hardbody on a 1/32 Plafit chassis before, not sure if Lexan/PET ...

Thanks a lot SlotBaker, that will get me busy. I noticed that Alpha do not list the Donuts on their Online Catalog, but they are on their "Online Store".